I thought it might be fun to see how they read as a chronological thread. Here's a wee look at Madrid from September 2009 to February 2010:
September
¡Bienvenidos! Welcome! And to our cover boys, Kaká and Cristiano Ronaldo, Bem-vindos, rapazes! Whether you’re new to or just getting back into the swing of the capital, you’ll be facing all Madrid can throw at you as it accelerates out of summer. And that’s where we come in – to help you get the most out of the experience. One of the more curious things you’ll come across, along with useless can-openers, old people who don’t like to queue and the unique Spanish talent for standing in your way, is what I call the ‘madrileño dance’. The ‘madrileño dance’ happens for the first three minutes after buying a copa. Alcoholic spirits are served in generous free-poured measures in tubular glasses, appropriately named tubos, filled with ice and accompanied by mixers in small glass bottles. Everything is perfect, except for the small catch that it’s not possible to fit the contents of your mixer bottle in your glass of liquor and ice. The ensuing three minutes after receiving your drink in a busy central Madrid bar consist of sipping barely diluted whisky, rum, gin or vodka, wincing, pouring some more coca cola or lemon into the glass and repeating from step one until the bottle is empty. Spilling drink over you as people lurch past you is par for the course at first, but soon you will have the dance down to a tee and be able to avoid spillage, have a conversation and, if you’re really good, smoke a cigarette at the same time. Only the true professional will learn to do the ‘dance’, have a conversation, smoke a cigarette and send a text message at the same time. For the rest of us, the most we can aspire to is the sip-wince-pour routine without ending up wearing our drink on our top. You’ll soon get the hang of it and you’ll find it’s as important a part of the night as the real dancing.
¡Salud!
October
Madrid isn’t a particularly spooky place, but here are five strange phenomena which seem to appear around the month of October.
The metro is taken over by ugly people, especially on line 5
This month, the filmstar looks and pearly-white smiles of the tanned Adonises and Aphrodites so prominent in the metro during the summer months begin to vanish. From mid-October to mid-May, you will notice your fellow metro passengers have an ever-increasing resemblance to Quasimodo. Their numbers are greatest before 9am (it is believed that some fear daylight), so those of us with the ill fortune of having to ride the early morning metro will be rubbing shoulders and hunchbacks with them on a daily basis. The cause is a mystery, but console yourself that there are worse horrors on the Cercanias trains.
Being infected with Swine Flu this winter is a nigh inevitability
Aside from the general displeasure of coming into close contact with the afore-mentioned Esmeralda-chasing ex-inhabitants of Notre Dame, the dirty old Swine Flu has gone pandemic and is as contagious as the viruses in all the zombie movies of recent times. However, avoiding the metro won’t spare you – Spanish notions of personal space will see to that. And even though Spanish Health Minister Trini Jiménez has ordered us all to sneeze into our armpits and to forgo greeting kisses, the Spanish habit of standing very close to people (compared to the distance most foreigners are accustomed to) will ensure transmission of the bug.
To demonstrate this, a study has shown that a group of eight Spanish friends who enter an empty bar of 100m2 will quickly arrange themselves so as to occupy a total surface area of less than 2m2. If you’re close enough to feel someone’s breath, you’re close enough to eat their germs.
All women over 50 have short hair
The sight of a middle-aged to elderly woman is not frightening in itself, granted. But when you come to realize that all the country’s women beyond a certain age have short hair, there must be something going on. Rumours abound of a machine in the back room of every hairdresser’s which processes every one of them. And a mind-controlling chip in their necks compels them to return each time their hair grows beyond a certain length.
You can’t say no to a night out
You begin to find it impossible to decline an invitation for drinks and dancing, regardless of the overdue assignments you have for university or tomorrow’s early start at work. This suppression of your willpower usually continues until after Christmas, though for some guiris, it becomes a terminal state.
You wake up at the other end of your metro line
Maybe this is just me, but you mysteriously slip into unconsciousness as you travel home on the first metro of the morning after having left a nightclub some time before six. You awaken, feeling sub-human and as if there were some strange hunching beginning to affect your back, only when a short-haired old woman sneezes in your face. A shower and a change of clothes doesn’t appear to rectify your dishevelled appearance, but you shuffle back onto the metro in the direction of your work.
Oh, what’s that? A sneeze? Must be an allergy or something.
Don’t have nightmares!
November
The clocks have gone back, the nights are getting darker and colder, but you can’t take refuge in bars and clubs every single night, can you? Some time you’re going to have to stay in, bite the bullet and watch some spectacularly bad Spanish TV.
Here are some of the horrors that await you:
Frustrating comedy/drama series invariably let down by either woeful script writing or embarrassingly poor acting (Or at least unable to maintain a good level in both script and acting for more than half a season)
Reality shows whose weekly gala programmes last about five hours (The good old reality show is a worldwide phenomenon, but following one here means committing one entire night out of your week)
Heavily politicized news broadcasts (When people trust newspapers more than TV news, there’s a problem)
Dreadful dubbing into Spanish of English-language films (In which it seems all children are voiced by the same woman doing a ‘Bart Simpson voice’)
Loud interminable commercial breaks with ads made by people who think we’re incredibly stupid (You can’t remember what you were watching anymore, but you can still hear, “Quiero hacer caca en el baño de Pablito” as you make a sandwich)
Gossip shows (My pick of the month)
The last time I visited my Spanish mother-in-law, she went to buy bread and came back after 50 minutes. The bakery is at the end of her street. “What a queue!” she said upon her return. “What a lie” we thought. We had had watched her intermittently through the kitchen window as she stopped each time she met someone she knew. She spent seven to ten minutes talking to each one. “What does she have to talk about for so long?” I asked my wife. It was gossip.
As gossiping is officially Spain’s national sport (dwarfing the number of those who follow football), it’s only right that it should have a significant presence on television. The number of these has snowballed since the emergence of private TV channels at the start of the ‘90s, taking over the morning programming, swallowing the old children’s TV afternoon/early evening slots and incredibly landing Saturday night prime time. Even Spanish Big Brother has it’s own spin-off gossip show.
These programmes do have some good things –
• they give gossip junkies a constant source of their drug
• they make gossiping a ‘victimless crime’ because celebrities aren’t real people with feelings who only exist for our amusement
• as there are only 153 people who still regularly follow bullfighting, top bullfighters wouldn’t get recognized walking down the street if it weren’t for these shows
• hairdressers, supermarket checkout assistants and not-so-successful models who sleep with bullfighters, footballers or actresses can get to be ‘celebrities’, go on these programmes and give other hairdressers, supermarket checkout assistants and not-so-successful models something to aspire to and give everyone else something to condescend
• the ultimate Spanish class – if you can understand everything as three panelists scream each other down simultaneously, you have surpassed many native speakers
• they make gossiping a ‘victimless crime’ because celebrities aren’t real people with feelings who only exist for our amusement
• as there are only 153 people who still regularly follow bullfighting, top bullfighters wouldn’t get recognized walking down the street if it weren’t for these shows
• hairdressers, supermarket checkout assistants and not-so-successful models who sleep with bullfighters, footballers or actresses can get to be ‘celebrities’, go on these programmes and give other hairdressers, supermarket checkout assistants and not-so-successful models something to aspire to and give everyone else something to condescend
• the ultimate Spanish class – if you can understand everything as three panelists scream each other down simultaneously, you have surpassed many native speakers
What’s wrong with them then? If you have to ask…
You can vote for your own ‘favourite’ worst thing about Spanish TV on our new website. I’ll have to go now – Sálvame is on in a minute.
You can vote for your own ‘favourite’ worst thing about Spanish TV on our new website. I’ll have to go now – Sálvame is on in a minute.
December
I’m convinced there are many and varied things each of us who lives here loves about Madrid. But since the cold and dark of winter set in, there are less reminders of the good and a tendency to slip into Bah Humbug mode about the negative. This isn’t altogether bad and I think it’s important to recognize that not all is perfect – to vent that pent up ire so we can purify and get into the Christmas spirit. I want you to think of the thing you hate most about Madrid and tell someone about it without holding back. Like a remake of A Christmas Carol where Ebenezer Scrooge lets out a long, primal scream and sobs into Bob Cratchett’s shoulder in the first week of December, before becoming reformed and jovial character, thus saving a protracted storyline of cruelty, recriminations and ghostly hallucinations to achieve redemption.
Think about it hard, though. Put on the spot, I’ll nearly always give a different answer. Asked a few months ago in a European Vibe video about Madrid loves and hates, I picked sharp-elbowed sardineras, unpleasant, squat, middle-aged women with an utter disrespect for politeness and accepted rules about queuing.
But after much thought, my number one hate is: obstacles that hurt.
Entrance turnstiles and exit gates that don’t open when they’re supposed to in the metro are a rare offender, but they’re worth a dead leg for a week when you take a femur-crunching blow, to the sniggers of other passengers and bored security guards. A far more constant threat are the iron bollards sprinkled liberally around the narrower streets in the centre of Madrid to separate where cars drive and people walk. The high concentration of these knee-high metal posts in areas like Huertas and Malasaña account for me picking up around 50 dents on each shin. One minute you’re walking along talking to your friends, the next you’re wincing in pain that drinking alcohol has done nothing to dull.
What takes the biscuit, however, are the skinny trees in troughs which blight pavements around the city. As if negotiating your way past the painfully slow walkers weren’t enough, the presence of these perpetually rubbish and dogshit-filled troughs adds the risk of falling in and doing yourself a mischief to your Madrid pedestrian experience. I’m speaking as someone who knows. Two Christmasses ago I was out for a meal and a night out. On a lengthy walk between the restaurant and our next bar of choice, I lost my friends after a foiled attempt to illegally urinate in a (quiet, I thought) corner of a garage. As I looked around for them near the Glorieta de San Bernando, a sudden wave of agony went through the right side of my body.
I thought I’d had a stroke.
As I peeled myself off the tree, I realized I’d stepped in a trough. Nobody seemed to see, but my friends had a good laugh while I mopped my bloody head in the bar.
Watch out for the trees. Merry Christmas!
January
Welcome back to Madrid, the Mighty Bear, La Sagrada Hostia de la madre que le parió (Luc’s resolution #1 – swear more in Spanish). I must say, you’re looking nice and fat – overdo it on the turkey, did we? (Luc’s resolution #2 – offend more people). But you also looked pleased to be back here, and, let’s face it, Madrid is much better than wherever you’re from despite its faults (Luc’s resolution #3 – adopt a more Madrid-centric view of the world).
We’re all about the resolutions this year. For most people, they’re a couple of half-arsed attempts to quit smoking or join a gym (Luc’s resolution #4 – quit smoking definitively). Others apply reverse psychology in light of repeated failed attempts to achieve their goals, promising to drink more and do no exercise (Luc’s resolution #5 – drink more). But, to help you with some more effective and original New Year’s resolutions, we’ve got a series of articles with suggestions for reaching your goals in 2010 (Luc’s resolution #6 – Give EV writers more licence to boss the readership around).
Adam Ciotkowski’s profile of Arctic Monkeys (page 8) reminds us not to miss one of the biggest nights of the year for indie fans in Madrid (Luc’s resolution #7 – buy tickets for concerts before they sell out). Susana López gives us ten tips for improving our Spanish (page 10) and sends us for a hot, warm and cold bath in Spain’s best hammams, while Ryan Craggs brings us ten of the best places to visit (page 12) within easy reach of Madrid. Garreth Nunn sets us on the track of finding a Spanish football club to support (page 20) and explains how he ended up becoming an Atlético Madrid fan (Luc’s resolution #8 – take more advantage of having two great football clubs on your doorstep, though watching them in a bar reinforces resolution #5). Matt Johnson offers up his comprehensive list of resolutions for 2010 (page 25), including some kamikaze skating in Madrid (Luc’s resolution #9 – know your limits, remember humiliation at roller-disco in 1991).
There’s a whole lot more in here, so get stuck in. I’m off to re-enact the video for The Verve’s Bitter Sweet Symphony in the centre of Madrid. Could be messy (Luc’s resolution #10 – the pavement is yours, take no prisoners).
February
This issue of EV being a Valentine’s special and also marking two years for me as editor got me thinking – in all this time, I’ve never explained how I came to live in Madrid.
If you ask people and make a point of counting, a surprisingly high proportion of English speakers in Madrid came to live here because of love.
I hold my hand up, too.
It was June 2005. At the time home for me was the east of France and the company I worked for had sent me to Madrid on a project for a month. In Madrid, Shakira and Alejandro Sanz singing La Tortura were on the radio, thousands of volunteering madrileños were carrying the largest flag ever constructed through the streets for the city’s 2012 Olympic bid candidacy celebration, Star Wars: Revenge of the Sith was filling the cinemas and a packet of Lucky Strike was 2.20€.
It’s funny what things jump out at you when you arrive in a new place – here, the mass of greasy chicken bones and serviettes you wade through in bar where the tapas are good, the shock of city centre prostitution-in-your-face the first time you see the girls of Montera, the extreme dryness of the air which turns bread to toast in 15 seconds and leaves you with dried blood in your nostrils in the morning.
My room, above the Bajos de Argüelles, was too hot to sleep in with the window closed and too noisy (from the student nightclubs below) to sleep in with it open. Joining in and going out was the only option for self-preservation. Despite trying to keep my mind on cold beer rather than hot women, I did meet the girl and the rest of my stay was as curly as her hair. We parted promising only to meet up for a short holiday in Scotland (take the, ehm, heat out of the situation). But three months later, I was on a plane from Geneva to Madrid, and this time I didn’t have a return ticket.
Love steamrollered all – even an ideological feud over whether it’s acceptable to leave the toilet seat up (which went on for a couple of months before I finally ceded in a trade off for an end to excessive numbers of mousse/face cream/perfume/girl stuff bottles around the bathroom basin area).
Madrid is a great place to be in love and to fall in love. But if you’re not into that kind of thing, the rugby’s on page 20.









